Before we left Belgrade, the kids told us what they were most looking forward to on this trip. Josh wanted to chill along the Adriatic, and Kathleen was looking forward to visiting a castle on the interior of Istria. The castle visit could only be done on a Sunday, so we had one full day to explore Rovinj. But one day is enough to hit the highlights.

First we strolled down to the waterfront and looked at the boats, moored four-deep in the harbor. Smaller boats were equipped for net fishing. Larger boats offered tours to the nearby islands, dolphin-watching cruises, and romantic sunset trips. The blue-green water was about four feet deep at the water’s edge, and clear all the way to the rocky bottom. A pipe fish swam past while a couple tried to take his picture.

Steps from the water, waiters carried coffee to couples and groups of old men sitting at aluminum cafe tables. A man in a tan business suit purred past on a moped with a large brown dog balanced on the foot rest. Minutes later the man passed us again, now traveling the other direction, now sharing his seat with a woman and a child, the dog still standing placidly on the foot rest.

We followed the water along the edge of town, then upwards and away from the sea, retracing our steps from the previous night. Tourists are allowed to climb the bell tower at St. Euphemia. So that is where we went.

In the 4th Century AD, the Roman Emperor Diocletian waged a war against Christians. Refusing to offer sacrifices to gods was treasonous. In far-away Chalcedon, young Euphemia defied a public order to worship Ares, and took refuge in a home with other believers instead. While they were worshipping the one true God, they were arrested. Euphemia was tortured, thrown to lions, and ultimately killed by a bear.

When the Diocletian persecution of Christians ended, Euphemia’s reputed relics were placed in a golden sarcophagus and later taken to Constantinople. Euphemia’s sarcophagus was tossed into the sea during the persecution of iconoclasts, and made its way to Rovinj. They honored her by building a church at the top of the tallest hill in town.

It costs 60 kuna for us to climb the bell tower, about $10. We gladly pay, then begin the ascent.

The bell tower is older than the cathedral. The stairs are nothing more than four-by-fours nailed into the stringers. Josh says the first few steps flex under his weight. According to my photo, it’s not the first few steps you should worry about. It’s the seventh and eighth. Or the one-hundred-fortieth.

At the top, the air is refreshing. And the view? Incredible.